Coat and jacket and method of constructing the same



Jan. 8, v1929.

- V. MARoNNA com AND JACKET AND METHOD OF conswauccr'me THE SAME 2 Sheets-Sheet Filed June 8, 1928 Jan. 8, 1929.

V; MARONNA COAT AND JACKET AND METHOD OF CONSTRUCTING THE SAME FiledfJun 8, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 R m E M n d J." a, 192.

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soar AND arson-r AND ME'rnon or cons'rnucrme ma Application am June e, 1928. Serial No. 288,750.

This invention relates to the manufacture of coats,fjackets-and similar garments; and

the object of the invention is to provide an improved method of attaching the several parts of. a garment of this class in such manner as to permit of the machine-stitchlng of all of the garment parts in'coupling the same together toi form the completely finished garment, eliminating the excessive labor costs 0 involved in hand stitching as is the common I practice in the manufacture of garments of this class, thus effecting a material saving in time as well as labor in the' production 'of such garments in addition to producing stronger and more'positive coupling-of the separate ,parts thereof; and with these and other objects in view, the invention consists in a meth- 0d of procedure for coupling garment parts in a simple, practical manner as more fully 9 hereinafter described andclaimed.

- The inventionis fully disclosed in the following specification, of which the accompanying drawin forms a part, in which the separate parts o my improvementare designated by suitable reference characters in each of the views, and in which Fig. 1 is a plan view showlng the first steps Q-in the method of con ling parts of a coat, -jacket or the like toget er.

-' Fig. 2 is a sectional 'view showing a furthe ste m the process. y

i 3 is a view similar toFig. 2 showing a still in rtherstep of procedure. 0 I Fig. 4 is a perspective detail view showing e'c the next step in coupling the garment parts.

Fi 5 is a perspective and sectional view showing the next step in the manufacture of;

- the garment. I

f F1 6 is a perspective view of the sleeve and Seeve liningprior to the coupling there- Figs.7 and'8 show the methods'of coupling the sleeve and lining.

; Fig. 9 ill'ustrates the sleeve coupled with the garment 'with the shoulder end of the liningfree; Y p Fig. 10 is a'pers ective view lllustrating the method of-attac ing the. sleeve lining to the armhole of the arment; and,

5o Fig. 11 is a sectional detail view on the line "11-11 of Fig. 10, illustratin the attachment of'the upper end of the seeve lining to the garment.

In the manufacture 'of coats, jackets and like garments, it is a common practice to cmthe several linings The next ste ploy in the assemblage of the several parts of such lgarments considerable labor in the form of and stitching or sewing, rendering such operations expensive, and further causa ing a considerable waste of time devoted to 8 such hand labor. It is the principal object of my invention to provide a coat or jacket which iswholly constructed and assembled by-machine stitching and to provide a method of producing a garment of'this class. b

The first operationin forming the .coat consists in cutting out to, the required sizes and styles, the several parts of the coat, such for example.- as the fronts, backs, facings, collar parts and sleeve an addi s cou l with said parts. ng J In Fig. 1 of the drawin I have shown at 12 and 13, the two parts '0 the back of a coat and in referring to a coat throughout the 7 stitched together at 16 and-the free side 0 7 the back 12 stitched to the front 14 at 16,

' whereas the front 15 is secured to the part 13 of the back as shown at 16". All ofsaid. stitchings are machine stitchings, forming seams. In referring to stitching or stitchings throughout the specification, in all instances machine stitching is meant, as no hand stitch- 'ing except in the use of bastings is employed. I

Prior-to stitching the fronts to the-backs 1 as.above described, the usual forming or- .shaping Vs designated by the lines 18 are an formed therein. The usual canvas employed for reinforcing the fronts including the lapels, isbasted in position prior to or after i the fronts have been secured to the backs. These canvas pieces are indicated 'at 19, Fig. 2, and oneis shown in full lines in Fig. 3, the basting thread being shown at 19.

in the method consists in stitching one si 7 e edge of linings 20 for the two fronts 14 and 15 to the seams 16*'16", one we of which is seen at 20 Fig. 3, after which the side linings are folded upon the fronts. The next 'step consists in joining the shoulder portions of the fronts and back in the usual manner, forming the shoulder seams 21, one of which is seen in Fig. 4 of the drawin after which the back 22 of the collar is stitched to'the upper edge of the front and back of the coat as seen at 22, the front or (parts, and including 70 p sleeves 31,

4 stitched-the collar back as at 23, 5.

The inner facings 24 of the two fronts'are new stitched to the free edges of the fronts as .inverting the parts where the facings are unside edges of the linings to the free edges collar front is now stitched to the upper edges of the facings as at 26 by turning or attached,in the usual manner.

The next step in the operation consists in stitching'the up er edges of the front linings 20 to the sideedges' of the back strap lining 23, forming a seam as at 28. The upper edges the front linings and the corresponding edges of the back strap lining are now stitched to the lower edge of the collar front 23 torming the seam 29.."1 now stitch the free of the acings 24 as at 30, and also to the inturned edges'at the bottom of the fronts of tilt the coatas seen at 30, Fig.5 of the drawing] The latter stitching operations are accom plished by what is known as a blind stitching machine which produces a stitchin that passes through t elining, facing an padbut does not pass through the fronts or of the coat, and is preferably arranged under the piping edges 6f the inturned portion. 1 This stitching is also commonly known asa felling operation.

The coat proper, as1de from the sleeves and sleeve linin s completed. In making the rst sew the outside seam 32 of I the sleeve. Then, after making the usual other sti ening bod 35 upon the lower end sleeve lining 33,'sew the lower. edgeof the I lining to the sleeve as at 34 with the sleeve in inverted osition and arrange the buckram or of the sleeve, note i 7 and 8. Then sew the inside seam of hot sleeve and sleeve lining in on'e'line of'stitching 36, note Fig. 8,

' till leaving in-this operation an unstitched secjtion or'area on the inside seam. of the sleeve lining 33, forming a pocket or opening 37. 7 The sleeve is .now reversed and passed over the lining in the usual manner, placing the same inposition to be attached to the sleeve holes ofthe coat. The sleeves pro r 31 are now fitted and stitched to the ae et-on the line of stitching or seam 38, note Fi 9, but in this operation, the upper free ee of the sleeve lining is not attached, as clearly seen .in said figure.

To complete the formation'of the coat, the upper edge of s the sleeve lining must be stitchedto the arm hole portion of the coat. This is accomplished by first drawing both sleeves into the interior ofthe coat through the arm holes, inverting the sleeves in this operation, after which the sleeves proper 31 v are passed out through the openings 37 in the linings 33 to extend said linings around the shoulder portions of the garment and beyond the arm holes therein'to accessibly expose the arm hole portions of the'garment as indicated .at 39, Fig. 10 of the drawing, the free unattached e es of the sleeve linings 33 being then fitted around the arm hole portions 39 and stitched in position as seen at 40, after which the sleeve linings are again passed downwardly over the sleeves or said sleeves passed inwardly into the linings through the openings 37 Before moving the sleeves outwardly, the openings 37 are closed b a line of stitching, thus finishing the comp etc-formation and mounting of the slevestwhioh may be now extended into proper position 'outwardlvwith respect to the structureof the coat.

In Fig. 10 of the drawing, I have illustrated the position 'of the several parts, permitting of the stitchin' operation at 40, it

being-understood that t e entire sleeve or at least the upper shoulder end'of the sleeve has been turned through the opening37 provided in the lining 33. Without this arrangement, this particular stitching operation could not be accomplished on a sewing machine, nor in fact could the other assemblages of the coat be accomplished by machine stitchirkg, out following substantially the speci' 0 od of 'rocedure herein set. out. I v

with meth- In orming the several stitchings or seams;v herein referred to, it will be understood that; these seams arepressed in the usual manner,

in order that the goods may assume th proper shape, and the several other commonly practiced ste s in the manufacture of the coat are 'followe such for example as the inclusion of paddings, .interlinings and the like, but asthis' forms no specific part of my invention," they are not dealt with m any specific manner.

- It will also be understood that my invention is not necessarily limited to the s ecific successive ste s of the method herein described, and slight c anges and modifications therein, may be made wlthin the scope of the appended claims without departing from the spirit of my invention or sacrificing its advantages.

Having fully describedmy invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Let 'ters Patent, is 2' 1. The herein described method of attaching sleeve linings to-the arm hole portions of av garment by machine stitching which consists in arranging the attached sleeves on the interior of the garment, providing one of the seams of the sleeve linm with an o ning intermediate the end portions of said llnings,

passing the upper portions oi the sleeves through said openings to expose the arm hole portions of the garment and the upper unattached ends of the linings, to permitthe stitching of said ends of the sleeve linings to the arm hole portions of the garment.

2. The herein described method of attaching a-sleeve lining to the arm hole portion of a garment by machine stitching which conslsts in'arrangin'g the'att'ached sleeve of such lining on the interior-of the garment, providing one of the seams of the sleeve liningwith an opening intermediate the end portions of said lining, [passing the sleeve portipn of the sleeve an a L of the sleeve lining around the arm hole perthereto aforesaidexposure; v v "3. herein dscribed method of attachof the garment, attaching the lower end of a garment by machine stitchin .vvhich con-j sists in arrangingthe attacheds eeve of such tion of the garment, and stitching the same."

by the accessibility provided by thef g which consistsin first attaching the shoulder ingasleeve lining to the arm hole portion of lining'onthe interior of-the garment pro-" vlding one of the seams of the sleeve lining with an openin intermediate. theend por' tions; ofsaid ining; passing thesleevei;

through said opening to expose the upper end portionof the sleeve and the, arm ho e of the v garment, arranging the unattached end of the sleeve lining around the arm hole portion 1 v Y of the garment, stitching the same thereto by'the accessibili' provided by 'tlneafore said exposure, an then placing the sleeve back into ,the sleeve lining and closing the opening in the sleeve lining by stitching.

. l 4. The herein describedmethod ofattach ing a-sleeveandsleeve linmg-to the-armhole J portion of'a garment by machine stitching which consists in first attaching theshoulder portion of the sleeve to the arm hole-portion of the garment, attaching th loweriendlo-f 1 the garment, an

the sleeve lining to the corresponding end of the sleeve and arranging the sleeve with the lining thereon on the inner portion of the garment, providing one of the seams of the lining with an opening arranged intermediate the attached and unattached ends thereof,

.then drawing the sleeve outwardly through said opening to expose the upper end portion of the sleeve andzthe arm hole portion of the garment, and arranging the upper unattached end. of the sleeve linin overthe shoulder and body portion of t e garment around the. arm hole, and then alining and stitching the free ed e of the lining to the arm hole 1 portion of t e garment.

'- 5. The herein described method of attache .ing a sleeve and sleeve lining. to the arm hole portion of a. garment by machine stitching,-

portion ofthe sleeve to the arm hole portion the sleeve lining to thecorresponding end of the sleeve'a'nd arranging the sleeve with the lining thereon on the 1111161 portion of the gar ment, providing one of the seams of the lining with an opening arranged intermediate the attached and unattached ends thereof, then drawing the sleeve outwardly throughsaid "o (min to ose the u er end ortion'of .tl ie sle ve a rih the arm li P garment and arranging theupper unattached Y end of the sleeve lining over' the-shoulder,

7!! arm hole, then alining and stitching the free i i I to the arm hole portion of K then reversing the parts and closingthe opening in the sleeve lining.

ole portion of the and body portion of the garment around the edge of the lining In testimony that I claim the foregoing as 4th day of Jung-1928.;

to I

80- my invention '1 have signed'my name this 

